52 Walks with Grace – SOMEWHERE!

Blackheath

Sometimes the best places are the ones you never meant to find.

Today started with a change of plan. It was already close to 30 degrees and Grace had absolutely no intention of getting up early, so our bigger walk became something much closer to home. Looking back, I’m glad it did.

Blackheath is a small village tucked away in the Surrey Hills, surrounded by heathland, woodland and winding country lanes. The heath itself has been shaped over centuries by grazing and common land, creating the peaceful landscape that remains today. Hidden amongst the trees is St Martin’s Church, one of Surrey’s most unexpected treasures.

I had no idea it was there.

Walking inside felt as though I’d stepped backwards in time. It was tiny, peaceful and covered in beautiful golden murals. I stood there imagining people gathering on a Sunday morning more than a century ago, dressed in their finest clothes, listening quietly to the service. It reminded me of the little church in Little House on the Prairie, standing alone and untouched by the world.

The beautiful Church of St Martin was dedicated in 1893 by Bishop Thorold of Winchester to serve the growing community of Blackheath. It was designed by the Arts and Crafts and Art Nouveau architect Charles Harrison Townsend and is the only Grade II listed building of his in the village. Inspired by an Italian wayside chapel, it was built in a simple basilican style rather than the traditional cross-shaped English church.

It is believed the church was built almost entirely from local materials, even down to the ironstone gathered from the heath, which was smelted to create the candleholders and lectern. Covering the walls are the extraordinary murals of Anna Lea Merritt, the first female artist to have a work acquired by the Tate. They are the only surviving example of her nineteenth-century mural work and, thanks to an innovative painting process, their colours remain as vibrant today as they were over 120 years ago. They were carefully restored in 2011 and are a remarkable piece of hidden artistic history.

Outside there was a sign pointing in different directions that made me smile. It almost felt as though it was saying, “this way, that way, somewhere.” It suited the place perfectly because, for a few moments, I genuinely forgot what year I was in. The only thing that brought me back to reality was the line of parked cars.

If you visit, parking is worth thinking about.

I had always heard people mention Blackheath Woods, but I assumed it was simply a footpath beside the church. I also used to hear people say not to walk there alone. I think there is a difference between being frightened and being sensible. Wherever we walk we should trust our instincts, let someone know where we are and carry a phone, but I don’t think beautiful places should be avoided because of fear.

A lady I met simply smiled and said, “Drive right to the end of the road.”

So I did.

Isn’t it funny how often life works like that? Sometimes all you have to do is ask.

The woods opened into wide, shaded paths beneath towering pines and silver birch. The air was cooler, birdsong echoed through the trees and shafts of sunlight broke through the canopy. It felt peaceful, almost untouched. I couldn’t believe somewhere so lovely had been hiding just a few miles from home.

Grace wasn’t really in the mood for much walking. The heat had got to her, so I carried her for part of the journey until we reached the shade, where she happily wandered beside me again, nose to the ground, taking everything in at her own pace.

On the drive home I noticed Barnett Hill Hotel. I had never heard of it before, so when I got home I looked it up. To my surprise you can book a massage, a facial or simply spend the day there without staying overnight.

I love finding places like that.

I can already picture another visit. A quiet walk through the woods, followed by a treatment, then sitting outside with a cup of tea overlooking the Surrey Hills, pretending for an hour or two that the house belongs to me.

Blackheath surprised me today.

It reminded me that we spend so much time looking further afield when there are beautiful places quietly waiting for us, just around the corner. Sometimes all it takes is a change of plan to discover somewhere you’ll never forget.